You can feel yourself as a pioneer not only in unknown places, but even in a big city. One has only to turn off the tourist routes. At the turn of the XIX and XX centuries Russian traveler discovered the real Cairo.
The main street of the preserved old, so to speak, native Cairo is a sharp contrast with all that I had to see so far in the local new European quarter. And in fact, in contrast to the wide Avenue and boulevards of the latter, this main street of the old city is no more than twenty steps wide, there is a thick crowd all day long, and not only along the sidewalks, but also across the pavement.
First of all, early in the morning appears here from the outskirts of fellah with a cow and a calf tied to it, then also a Bedouin with a whole herd of goats. These are the milk vendors here.
Shops and shops open at eight o'clock. The streets are crowded with dissimilar people. Here is Nubian with chestnut face, mottled with crimson stains shirt
On both sides of the narrow streets in the shops manufactured trade goods, grocery and other goods, imported mostly from European cities. But in order to see the trade stands of the native type, it is necessary to turn from the main streets, those narrow alleys, in which, as if by galleries, winding rows posted bazaars. In these galleries, six feet wide, no sidewalks, and under a canopy stretched from the top of the mats there is going to even more dense crowd of heterogeneous people. On both sides of the shops with wide open doors exhibited a myriad of products brought to Cairo as the main share place from different parts of Asia and even Europe. Each of the goods are assigned a special number. In the same row sell shoes in the other — ready dress. Before the door of another shop on the carpet, sitting huddled up by the owner himself, as he was immediately placed and the buyer, and between them is done leisurely bargaining. And there, in front of the box c different kinds of silver and gold coin, sits the Jew-changed. The crowd is incessant hum, and then covered the loud screaming or the water-carrier, carrying hungry for fresh water in wineskins, or seller of dates and an orange. Between the peddler of lemonade, loudly tapping their copper cups.
Navigating the convolutions of the narrow aisle, I admired the exhibited strange guns and swords, that finally got lost in this maze. Seeing near semnalizare police in a red FEZ, I turned to him with a question, calling the main street. Realizing that I as a foreigner got lost, he grabbed me by the arm and, like we have policemen driving street brawlers, took me through the ranks. When we got to the other COP, he gave me to him, and this, in turn, charged me a third, which finally brought me out of the labyrinth series on main street and a friendly goodbye to me. Hence, I soon came to familiar Opera square in the European quarter.
Passing on the Opera square, I suddenly heard the cry of "Garda!", that is, "Watch out!". Hurrying to the sidewalk, I looked back at the screaming and saw two tennrich guard, quickly ran past me. These so-called Sasi were dressed in colorful jackets with lace and white trousers, reaching to the bare knees. In the right hand each holding a long decorated with colored swirls on the pole. After flashed sasami swept past me stroller, in which, leaning against the pillows, sitting dapper dressed lady. This kind of speed was opened in Cairo at a time when the old town was reaching the narrow street. Then Casy in advance, warned a crowd of pedestrians rushing about the crew. But at the present time on the broad Avenue of the new town such a precaution is unnecessary, and these sassy are now the only evidence of the vain vanity of the rich people.
HERO Edward R. Zimmerman
Writer, traveler, translator
Born in 1822. Graduated from mathematical faculty of Moscow University. In 1857 he traveled to the United States of North America and Venezuela, in 1858 and 1859-m notes about this trip were published in the journal "Russian Gazette". In the years 1869-1870 again traveled to the North American United States, about what in 1870, wrote in his "Russian chronicle". At the end of the 1870s went to a trip around the world, visited Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii and North America, the memories of this voyage appeared in the "notes of the Fatherland". In 1897 he published "Travel essays on travel in Central Asia, Egypt, Tunisia and Algeria." In 1902-m "Around the world" published his impressions of the Egyptian expedition.
The material was published in the magazine "Around the world" № 9, September 2018.